Dermatologically Developed

Dry or Oily Dry skin, also known as xerosis, results from a complex, multifactorial etiology and is characterized by dull color (usually gray-white), rough texture, and an elevated number of ridges. The primary factors that regulate the level of skin hydration and that contribute to dry skin are the levels of stratum corneum (SC) lipids, natural moisturizing factor (NMF), sebum, hyaluronic acid (HA), and aquaporin. The role of the SC and its capacity to maintain skin hydration is the most important of these factors in terms of dry skin. The SC is composed primarily of ceramides, fatty acids, and cholesterol. These constituents help protect the skin and keep it watertight when they are present in the SC in the proper balance. Both Oily and Dry skin types can suffer from dehydration, which could cause the oily skin type to over produce sebum to compensate the TEWL (trans epidermal water loss) and cause inflammatory responses, or cause the dry skin type to become sensitive and irritated due to a lack of hydration. Ingredients needed to supply hydration for both skin types differ. Therefore it is important to provide an accurate skin diagnosis to determine the cause of dehydration based on skin type.

Sensitive or Resistant A potent SC that provides especially reliable protection to the skin, rendering harmless allergens and numerous irritating exogenous substances, characterizes resistant skin. Individuals with such skin are unlikely to experience erythema (unless overexposed to the sun) or acne (though stress or hormonal fluctuations could lead to a breakout). Such skin also confers an interesting set of advantages and disadvantages. On the positive side, resistant skin allows for the use of most skin care formulations with an extremely low probability of incurring adverse reactions (e.g., acne, rashes, or a stinging sensation). However, resistant skin also renders many skin care products ineffective, with individuals with such skin experiencing difficulty in detecting differences among cosmetic formulations and exhibiting an exceedingly high threshold for product penetration and efficacy. It is therefore not only important to prescribe products with appropriate levels of active ingredient strengths, but also with carrier penetration abilities based on the skin reaction phenotype.

Even pigmentation or Hyperpigmentation This skin-type parameter refers to the proclivity to develop unwanted hyperpigmentation on the skin, especially the facial skin. The focus is on the pigmentary changes or conditions that can be ameliorated with topical skin care products or minor cosmetic procedures. In this context, melasma, solar lentigos, ephelides, and postinflammatory hyperpigmentation are representative conditions for the hyperactive pigmented skin type. Considerable anxiety is often associated with the presentation of these skin lesions, and consumers often pay substantial sums in the attempt to treat these conditions. To best treat these pigmentary problems, it is incumbent upon the professional to understand the source of pigmentation. It is therefore important to understand this phenotype before providing treatment and product advice to consumers.

Firm or Lax Cutaneous ageing is a complex multifactorial phenomenon described in terms of endogenous and exogenous influences that ultimately manifest in alterations to the outward appearance of the skin. Endogenous ageing—known as natural, chronological, or intrinsic ageing in this case— is a function of heredity or cellular programming. The ageing-related manifestations of such forces that occur over time are, therefore, considered inevitable and beyond human volition. Exogenous ageing—known typically as extrinsic ageing—is driven by chronic exposure to the sun and other deleterious environmental elements (e.g., smoking, poor nutrition) and, therefore, can be avoided, though not always easily. While these etiological strains appear, and have been typically evaluated, as discrete processes, recent findings suggest that UV irradiation— the leading cause of extrinsic ageing—may also alter the normal course of chronological ageing. Therefore, it is possible to implement corrective methods to yield satisfactory results for both types of ageing by targeting reversing photo damage.